Sensitive skin | Best products for sensitive skin

There's a huge amount of confusion surrounding sensitive skin, largely due to the fact that everyone’s skin has, at some point, been sensitive to something. (Considering the pro-strength skincare with potent active ingredients like retinols and acids available on the market today, it’s hardly surprising either.) But when sensitive skin is a permanent issue for you, it can be tricky – and exhausting – working out how to build a reliable daily routine.

Here, we’ve asked the experts to dispel the myths and share what you really need to know about sensitive skin – from working out how whether you have it, to the ingredients to utilise for it and the products to trust.

Of course, conditions such as contact dermatitis and eczema should be assessed by a dermatologist or doctor, but the below is a reliable guide for managing reaction-prone skin on a daily basis.

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What is sensitive skin?

According to dermatologist Dr. Justine Hextall, sensitive skin is skin that tends to react to the application of various products – specifically those that are traditionally tricky to tolerate, such as “alcohol-based gels, exfoliants, soaps and perfumed formulas amongst others”.

Dr. Anita Sturnham, a GP specialising in dermatology, explains that sensitive skin is a perception of how your skin feels rather than a medical diagnosis. “The term is normally used to describe how your skin feels when you use skincare or beauty products on it. Symptoms such as burning, tingling, stinging, redness, dryness and peeling can be associated with skin sensitivity.” Of course, when you have sensitive skin, every new product is a gamble.

“Recent surveys have shown that up to 50 per cent of the population claim to have sensitive skin, with women being slightly more susceptible than men and areas of the face such as the eyelids being especially delicate,” says Dr. Sturnham.

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Am I sensitive or sensitised?

Sensitive skin can be caused by genetics, and occur consistently. “It can be linked to an underlying medical cause, such as irritant or allergic contact dermatitis,” says Dr. Sturnham. “Those with eczema, acne, rosacea or other inflammatory skin conditions are also prone to sensitivity."

However, any skin type can experience periodical sensitivities, which are often caused by a certain ingredient or excessive concentration. Dr. Hextall flags the overuse of ‘actives’ as a rising cause of sensitive skin, so you may want to eye that super-strength exfoliator up with new-found suspicion.

“If your skin becomes sensitive as a result of product application, irritant dermatitis normally appears acutely, whereas allergic contact dermatitis can take some time to appear,” says Dr. Sturnham. “Each time you use the product you build up a slightly stronger immune response, and eventually the skin erupts.”

What’s more, certain environmental factors can also increase sensitivity, including UV exposure and fluctuations in external temperature.

Is ‘hypoallergenic’ the gold standard?

Many assume that a product labelled as ‘hypoallergenic’ is ideal for sensitive skin but, like many beauty buzzwords, this term may not mean quite what you’d expect. “Unfortunately the labelling on many skincare brands is misleading,” says Dr. Sturnham. “Whilst the term ‘hypoallergenic’ may seem comforting, be cautious. There are no federal standards or definitions that govern the use of this term and a labelling of 'hypoallergenic' can mean whatever a particular company wants it to mean.”

Manufacturers of cosmetics are not required to submit substantiation of their hypoallergenicity claims to the FDA, meaning it’s ultimately a redundant term. Dr. Sturnham’s tip? “Become your own skin expert and check labels for key ingredients to avoid.”

How to treat sensitive skin

“When you have sensitive skin, regardless of the underlying cause, the key issues are skin barrier dysfunction and raised levels of inflammation,” says Dr. Sturnham. “So, the strategy to treat sensitive skin should be based around protection of your barriers, while hydrating and calming the skin.’

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Dr. Hextall adds that while those with a predisposition to sensitive skin will always be potentially vulnerable, finding the right routine – and omitting any reaction-causing ingredients – will help keep your skin consistently calmer and more comfortable.

Ready to implement your strategy? Here's how:

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Keep it simple

“Strip your skincare regimen right back to a gentle cream or gel-based cleanser, morning and night, to start with,” says Dr. Sturnham. “Look for hydrating ingredients such as rosehip, wheatgerm and glycerin in a non-foaming formulation.” Only add in other products once your skin feels balanced and ready.

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

Dry, sensitive skin types should love this ceramide-rich creamy cleanser.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser

The French pharmacy brands should be a go-to for anyone with sensitive skin. La Roche-Posay's cleanser is milky, cooling and soothing.

The Nue Co. Barrier Culture Cleanser

This smart cleanser contains prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics that work to repopulate the skin's essential microbiome while bringing down inflammation.

Avène Tolerance Control Extremely Gentle Cleanser for Very Sensitive Skin

This ultra-gentle cleanser, from a brand long-trusted for sensitive types, melts make-up and hydrates as it cleanses.

Forget foam

When you have sensitive skin, the list of products to approach with caution is lengthy, but foaming formulas sit at the very top. Most frothy face washes are more alkaline in pH than the skin, meaning they’ll upset that all-important balance and leave your face feeling stripped. Lots of the traditional formulas call on alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol which can break down the skin’s barrier (not all alcohols are bad for skin, but this one certainly is).

Change your acid

The rise of ‘at-home peels’ involving alpha-hydroxy acids (namely glycolic) is undoubtedly behind many a sensitivity flare-up, but having reaction-prone skin doesn’t mean you have to avoid chemical exfoliation altogether.

Dr. Sturnham suggests switching out the harsher acids in favour of lactic. “It’s a hydrating alpha-hydroxy acid exfoliant that works superficially,” she says. The key it not to overuse acid-based products, which means a once-weekly treatment only – especially if your barrier function is impaired.

If you’re looking to clear congestion, another option is to use a night-time cleanser containing salicylic acid, in a maximum concentration of two per cent.

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Daily Peel

Now 79% Off

This toned-down version of Dr. Dennis Gross' famed Alpha Beta pads contains a combination of lactic and mandelic acids.

Dr Sebagh Deep Exfoliating Mask Sensitive

Lactic acid is combined with redness-inhibiting azelaic acid in this gentle yet effective mask.

Decree Deep Cleanse

Bentonite clay and a small dose of lactic acid combine to make this a rich and creamy, yet mildly exfoliating evening treatment.

Tata Harper Radiance Mask

Tata Harper's Superkind line is designed to treat sensitive skin that can't tolerate essential oils or potent actives. This creamy mask contains a light lactic acid that self-neutralises, ensuring you won't be left red in the face.

Hydrate wisely

Hydration is crucial for sensitive skin – but it’s equally important to find the right formula. Dr. Sturnham advises using a lighter moisturiser in the morning. The ideal choice will be oil-free, water-based and non-comedogenic. “Ingredients such as squalane, peptides and hyaluronic acid work well, combined with plant-based emollients such as safflower and apricot kernel,” she says. At night, look for the same key ingredients, but in a richer texture.

The Nue Co. Barrier Culture Moisturiser

This moisturiser is based around powerful probiotics which work to rebuild the skin's all-important microbiome.

Biossance Squalane + Omega Repair Cream

Skin-identical squalane is combined with fatty acids and lipids in this SOS skin repair cream.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra Fluid

Lightweight and fast-absorbing, this fragrance-free lotion is ideal for easily upset complexions.

StriVectin Wrinkle Recode Moisture Rich Barrier Cream

Packed with ceramides, this ultra-rich reparative cream is brilliant on dry and more mature skin.

Ditch the fragrance

Another one on Dr. Sturnham’s banned list, fragrance is entirely surplus to your skin’s requirements. It’s important to consider that not all fragrance is synthetic either: many ‘natural’ (a term as ambiguous as ‘hypoallergenic’ ) products use essential oils to create spa-like scents that are admittedly lovely, but not ideal for sensitive skin. Of course, not all essential oils will cause irritation, but many can – some key culprits are mint and lavender – so if your skin is easily upset, it’s best to avoid altogether.

Boost your barrier

Another way to boost your barrier is via a fortifying, hydrating serum, applied both morning and night. “Ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide, squalane and hyaluronic acid are my top picks,” says Dr. Sturnham.

Pai Instant Kalmer Sea Aster and Schisandra Ceramide Serum

Made specifically for reactive skin, this serum contains reparative oat alongside barrier-replenishing ceramides.

Kate Somerville DeliKate Recovery Serum

This calming water-weight serum is especially popular with rosacea sufferers, thanks to the way it can bring down redness quickly.

Medik8 Clarity Peptides

Rich in niacinamide, this milky serum will balance pores and fortify upset skin.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra Dermallergo Serum

This gentle serum will hydrate, calm and soothe the most sensitive of skins: eczema included.

Always wear SPF

Of course, using a good SPF every day is the golden rule of skincare, and it's especially important for the sensitive-skinned. Dr. Sturnham recommends a mineral-based, factor 30 SPF to shield skin and prevent further inflammation.

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare All Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense SPF

This smart new launch uses a transparent mineral filter to keep sensitive skin clear and shielded.

SkinCeuticals Mineral Radiance UV Defense SPF50 Sunscreen Protection

With hydrating extracts, mineral filters and a gentle tint, this sunscreen does it all.

Ultra Violette Lean Screen Mineral Skinscreen

The lightweight tint in this mineral sunscreen negates the risk of any white cast.

REN CLEAN SKINCARE Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30

This mineral sunscreen will gently mattify oily complexions while keeping you protected.

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